The 72nd edition of the Madrid catwalk, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), the first that has been held with the world’s public in the new normal, has closed with the trade of three creators who predict a difficult future in which The content, quality consumption and the good work of the author’s design will prevail.
“You use fashion to socialize and it is getting more and more difficult, ” Custo Dalmau, creative of the firm, Custo Barcelona, told Efe this Saturday, adding that “our way of living is changing, but a good product will continue to have a future”.
An idea added by Juan Carlos Mesa , creative director of Maison Mesa, who considers that people are more “receptive to quality, to the craftsmanship of Spanish fashion.”
One begins to be “proud”, although he predicts collections “shorter in quantity and more spaced in time”, adds Mesa, while recognizing the ” courage of Ifema in organizing this event in such” difficult “times.
For Ángel Vila , soul of the Brain & Beast firm, the ‘loose verse’ of the catwalk, the current situation due to COVID-19 “in the short term we will forget it like mad cows or influenza A”.
Fashion is “to be handsome, sexy, self-confident,” says Vila, who considers that he has “lost his taste for grooming.”
After these behind-the-scenes reflections, the designers got down to work and excitedly presented their new work.
The first, Custo Barcelona, who has taken the “Wake up World” catwalk with which he wants society to “wake up” from the lethargy imposed by the pandemic. The result has been garments with highly technical and experimental designs with which he wants to reflect a new “consciousness”.
Designs with technological fabrics where nylon and neoprene are not lacking , in which white is the protagonist, but where neons and optical effects created with overlapping textures are not lacking.
With the aim of shaking consciences, Ángel Vila has reflected on his new proposal on advertising and political messages, with a direct criticism in the messages of his garments to the “manipulation” to which the citizen is subjected.
Designs with which she also makes a “flashback” to her preadolescence in the eighties, updating very feminine garments such as a red suit jacket that allows women to reconnect with “old-fashioned femininity” that she wants a new generation to integrate.
Pieces in which she is inspired by great icons such as Rocio Jurado and where Diana de Gales could not be absent, “as an image of victory from the media” a style that accompanies a can of gasoline.
The dancers Rafael Amargo and Alexander Peacock and the actress Mariola Fuentes have been in charge of giving a show to the presentation of Maison Mesa.
Showcasing the designer’s avant-garde and provocative spirit, Juan Carlos Mesa has presented a proposal for spring summer 2021 inspired by the horror film from the 1920s “Dr. Caligari’s Cabinet” , which takes place in a madhouse.
A spirit that translates to designs with flowing silhouettes, with lots of volume in cotton fabrics, hemstitch linens with “fundamental sewing” details in taffeta silks for evening dresses.
“Fanatic” of silk muslin to recreate cubist effects piece by piece, cut on the bias, with a lot of geometry in a “fabric that is pure air”. Designs that incorporate holographic effects in iridescent taffeta.
“I do not design for a certain type of woman. I like to dress an 80-year-old woman as much as a 20-year-old woman, ” concludes the creator.
At the 72nd edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, Ángel Schlesser was awarded the L’Oréal Award for the best collection on the catwalk, while Neus Bermejo received the award for the best model, on a stage where it has lacked the warmth of other occasions.